Going Goegap

Imagine the Richtersveld Mountain Desert, but distilled into a space ten times smaller. That’s Goegap. It is a nature reserve unknown to 999 South Africans out of every thousand, situated on the edge of Springbok, a town itself teetering on the beautiful edge of nowhere. Goegap is every-man desert, big enough to feel vast, small enough not to be dominating. Kokerboom trees spike the powder-blue Boesmanland sky, the latter backdropping haphazard rock stacks rucking up from amber plains. Warlord Oryx hold sway upon these sandy swathes, rattling their rapier horns amidst the heat mirage. Amidst the rugged jumbles of boulders – some the size of two-up-two-down apartment blocks – you might happen upon Hartmann’s mountain zebra or, even better, that most shaolin monk of antelope, the Klipspringer. They traject effortlessly from apex to vortex, like springloaded clockwork toy beasts, floatingas if FX-ed from House of the Flying Daggers. Zip-zap-bang-boom … 5m slow-motion leaps, no hesitation, only total control, loving every free-flow instant of life here in the ancient Kalahari.

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